The expansion of living space is now an extremely urgent issue not only in multi-storey buildings, but also in the private sector, therefore, many are interested in how to make a living room out of an attic. There are several options for this, but it makes no sense to consider everything and we will focus on fairly common finishing materials and insulation - the principle will still remain the same.
In addition to all our explanations, as an addition, you can also watch the thematic video in this article.
Room arrangement
- In many ways, the arrangement of the room from the inside will depend on the shape of the roof that is made on your house, although the basic instructions for insulation and finishing work will not change - only the shape of the room will differ. It makes no sense to list all types of roofs - you see most of them in the figure, but there is a lot of this, since residential premises are most often equipped under gable, hipped and mansard (hip and half-hip) roofs.
- Of course, if we talk about the arrangement of a residential or even technical room in the attic, it is important to monitor the serviceability roofs, rafters and beams, otherwise the whole idea will not make sense. Our goal in this case is a step-by-step guide to the installation of the frame, thermal insulation, hydro-barriers and drywall, which are related to internal finishing materials, and we will not touch on external work.
- Of course, if you decide to make a room in the attic with your own hands, you should not forget about the permissible parameters of the roof itself.. This suggests that the new room should be suitable for normal pastime and not hamper you with its size. In the upper image you see what height is allowed for arranging living quarters for a gable and mansard roof.
Advice. When measuring the attic, do not forget that the room should be suitable for the height of the person living in it.
Therefore, you yourself can set the tolerance standards, although the main guideline will be the numbers indicated above.
Warming
The first thing you need to do to equip the room is to cover the entire roof from below with a waterproofing film that will firmly protect the insulation and the drywall itself from moisture, even if the roofing material is damaged.
For this, you can use dense cellophane, but it is even better if it is laid in two layers with roofing felt, and only after such protection can you proceed with the frame.
Before starting the installation of the frame, think about what method of laying the insulation you will choose - between the profiles or under them? Please note that the first method, which you see in the photo above, will better protect your room from the cold, as it will turn out to be a solid array.
Of course, the second method is also not so hopeless, but you will have to poke mineral wool under the profiles, which is extremely inconvenient to do in those places where there are CD brackets.
Now you need to cover the mineral wool with a vapor-permeable film to avoid steaming the insulation if moisture gets there. The surface of such a film consists, as it were, of the smallest cone cones, which are capable of passing moisture only in one direction, and we need to ensure the outflow of this moisture from the insulation into the room.
Therefore, the vapor barrier is laid with a rough side to the wool, and with a smooth side - into the room, and this can be done both under the profiles and on top of them, pressing the film with sheets of drywall (the total price of finishing will not change).
Recommendation. Before installing drywall sheets, do not forget about communications, since you can make a living room in the attic only if you run electricity and heating there.
Also, perhaps, there will need water and sewerage and, most likely, the Internet or television.
Drywall
GKL (plasterboard sheets) in the attic, you can use any, but you'd better opt for wall, ceiling or waterproof, and the latter option is necessary only in cases where ceramic tiles will be laid on the walls (ceiling).
If you are going to paste over the entire room with wallpaper, then use wall drywall, and if you want to putty the room, then for this it is quite possible to get by with ceiling plasterboard.
Whatever finishing method or type of GKL you choose, remember that if the profiles are located along the sheet, then you will need four CDs for each sheet (40 cm from the profile centers), and if across, then six pieces (after 50 cm from the center of the profile).
Now let's pay attention to the screws so that they do not interfere with the finish. So, the head of the screw should be recessed under the plane by 1-1.5 mm (step 30 cm), but do not break through the paper and to prevent this from happening, use a special nozzle with a cup that limits the depth of screwing.
After installing all the drywall sheets, you will need to seal each screw head and all joints using a fugenfüller or regular putty for this. And only after all this is dry, you can prime the surface for finishing putty or wallpaper stickers. This precaution is necessary in order to protect the surface from rust stains released by the metal.
Conclusion
We looked at how to make a drywall room out of the attic, but everything will be absolutely the same if instead of plasterboard you use MDF / PVC panels or wooden lining. The entire front finish will mainly depend on your imagination - the main thing is that it is warm there, and do not forget about ventilation.
Happy building!
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