Shed roof for home and garage - 2 do-it-yourself arrangement options

• If the distance between the supporting walls does not exceed 4.5 m, then standard rafter legs are able to withstand the weight of any roofing;
• A span with a width of 4.5 to 6 m should be reinforced with 1 rafter leg. Such a cut is installed on a bed, which, in turn, is placed on the floor beams along the facade wall;

• Perpendicular to the rafters, a run is stuffed into which vertical racks abut. Plus, inclined stops are installed on both sides of the racks

• On a continuous span up to 9 m wide, rafter legs are installed on both sides of the structure;
• With a span width of 12 to 15 m, it must be divided into 2 sectors, 6 m and 9 m (+/-1 m) and, again, a cantilever-run structure should be installed;

• On spans of more than 15 m, several cantilever-purlin structures will have to be installed, plus intermediate structures should be additionally fixed with contractions.

If capital piers are not provided for in the project, then cantilever-purlin structures are mounted, which actually play the role of piers (there is a photo of such a design in the description of the installation of a pitched roof of a house).

Looking ahead a little, I’ll say right away:

• In block houses (brick, foam concrete, etc.), the rafters are rigidly attached to the Mauerlat;
• In wooden houses, a floating truss system is mounted.The rafter legs here are attached to the Mauerlat using movable brackets, as in the diagram. This is caused by large shrinkage in wooden structures.

We have a box of a three-story house made of aerated concrete. As such, there is no professional project, so you have to improvise on the spot.

There is no technical floor, in other words, there is no attic; under the roof there will be a living room with a sloping ceiling. Accordingly, the rafter legs will play the role of floor beams.

The level of wind load in a three-story house is already quite high, and our house is also on a hillock, so in order to firmly fix the roof on light walls made of aerated concrete, we decided to fill in an armored belt of 200 mm from above, around the perimeter of the walls.

• First, we mount a wooden formwork from a planed board and set its upper cut strictly along the horizon;
• We lay inside reinforcement with a cross section of 10 mm;
• With a step of no more than 1 m, we expose vertical bars from the reinforcement;
• We pour concrete and align the upper plane along the horizon with the rule.

The photo shows an armored belt on a cinder block box, but the arrangement technology is the same everywhere.

Concrete, according to the rules, matures for 28 days, but work can be started in a couple of weeks.

Rafter legs are installed on the Mauerlat. In this case, a solid beam of 150x150 mm was used, but if there is no such beam, then a Mauerlat can be made from 2 bars for rafter legs with a section of 50x150 mm or 50x200 mm.

• Waterproofing is laid on top of the armored belt, we took Hydroizol, although it is possible to lay a simple roofing material in 2 layers;
• Now we take the timber together, apply it to the reinforcement studs and hit it from above;
• Following the traces of the reinforcing bars, we drill holes with a cross section of 10 mm;
• We put the Mauerlat on the fittings.

The distance between the load-bearing walls of the house is 12 m, and the owners do not want to install a wall, people want a spacious room on top.

Therefore, for the intermediate support of the truss system, a cantilever-purlin structure was installed, 2 vertical racks made of timber 150x150, on which a “bed” of the same timber was laid.

After experimenting with the ScratchUp program, we decided to make a large roof extension of 1.2 m, so the mauerlat and the intermediate bed were laid with the same overhang.

At first, there were doubts about such a large offset, because the lower Mauerlat “looks out” at 2.2 m, but we decided that if we reduce it, then the zest will be lost

.

The price of monolithic rafter legs of this length will be sky-high, so we knocked them down from 2 bars with a section of 50x200 mm.

The rafters were mounted in increments of 580 mm, with an allowable maximum of 700 mm.

The bars were spliced ​​in a run-up, so that the joints between adjacent layers were at a distance of at least 50-70 cm.

We first knocked down the bars with 100 mm nails, and then additionally fixed them with 80 mm self-tapping screws, and both nails and self-tapping screws were driven from both sides.

As a result, we got relatively inexpensive rafters with a bearing capacity much higher than monolithic ones.

The scheme for fitting rafters to Mauerlat is quite simple:

• From the bottom of the rafter leg, a sector is cut out in the form of a Mauerlat;
• The rafter leg is put in its place and is fixed on both sides with a steel corner using self-tapping screws.

We decided to cover the roof with seam iron.

The overall pie looks something like this:

• A windproof membrane is stretched over the rafters;
• Then the wind protection is fixed with a counter-lattice;
• The under-roofing crate is stuffed perpendicular to the counter-lattice;
• Seamed iron is attached to the roofing crate;
• From below, between the rafters, we lay insulation plates;
• We sew them with a vapor barrier membrane;
• The lower control grille is stuffed onto the vapor barrier and the lining is sewn on.

The windproof membrane was attached to the logs first, we took Tyvek from the TechnoNIKOL company.

The fabric comes in rolls. We take a roll, roll it out perpendicular to the rafters and immediately fix the canvas with a stapler.

The first tape is rolled out along the bottom edge, the next tape is superimposed on the previous one and so on to the top.

According to the instructions, the tapes are supposed to be superimposed on each other by about 15-20 cm, this distance is noted on the summer itself, plus the joint is glued with double-sided tape.

There must be a ventilation gap between the wind protection and the roofing; to ensure it, we fill the bars of the 50x50 mm counter-lattice on the logs (in parallel).

The under-roofing crate is stuffed onto the counter-lattice (perpendicularly), for this we used a planed board 25x150 mm

According to the rules, if a board of 25x150 mm is chosen for the underlaying, then it can be stuffed in increments of 150 mm, but this is suitable for roofs with a large angle of inclination and roofs with a small area.

On a large pitched roof with a low angle of inclination, the flooring needs to be made almost continuous, so we had to additionally strengthen the flooring.

For this, boards of 25x100 mm were stuffed between the boards of 25x150 mm, as a result, there were gaps of 25 mm each, such a gap is enough to ventilate the wood.

A vertical pediment was stuffed along the perimeter of the roof. On the lower part of this pediment, we immediately fixed the hooks for the gutters of the gutter system.

Since the square of the roof is large, it was decided to make two drain funnels along the edges, respectively, the gutters are installed with a slope from the center to the edge.

The technology for arranging a seam roof is not complicated, but the problem is that the sheets themselves cannot be bent, and the length of the sheet is 12 m.

Therefore, we had to collect scaffolding with a bridge and carefully bring the sheets onto the roof.

Overhangs are hemmed using the same technology as the roof.

We need to mount a shed roof on a garage with a bathhouse in the same building.

The box is lined with foam concrete blocks, the wind load here is not so strong and our budget is also small, so it was decided to do without an armored belt.

Mauerlat or, more simply, we made the strapping from a bar 50x150 mm. The support beam, as seen in the photo, has been reinforced.

The side strapping does not carry a special load, so a beam was put here in 1 layer.

As a waterproofing, 2 layers of roofing material were laid.

First, we drive a special screw clip with a diameter of 14 mm under a powerful screw, then we fasten the Mauerlat with screws;

It is desirable to drive the clips in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe joints between the blocks, so it will be stronger.

After mounting the harness, we need to mount the front support frame, it must be reinforced on both sides with stops. For stops we use a board 40 mm thick.

In this case, we are dealing with a classic layered system, so after installing the facade frame, we install an intermediate frame on the wall.

The sequence of work is approximately the following:

• After arranging the Mauerlat, we mount the facade frame;
• On both sides we expose the extreme rafters;
• Focusing on the extreme rafters, we assemble the intermediate frame;
• The intermediate frame is assembled in the same way as the front one, only the dimensions are more modest.

The facade of the support frame must be sewn up with a board immediately.

Powerful ceiling beams are not needed for this structure, because the attic is miniature and there will be nothing heavy there, so a 40x150 mm board is enough.

For a layered system, paired, powerful rafters are not needed, this is one of the advantages of such a system.

In this case, we took 2 beams 50x150 mm and knocked them down so that the joint rested on the intermediate frame.

They didn’t buy steel corners to install the rafters (they saved money), instead they fixed the timber with iron brackets, I won’t say that this is bad, before everything was fastened with such brackets and the houses still stand today.

On the pediment there should not be any steps and sills, because we still have to sheathe it with a board later.

Before mounting the roof sheathing, we need to sew up the side gables with a board.

Everything is simple here: without measuring anything, fill the planed board over the area, and then take a chainsaw and cut off the excess along the edge of the extreme log.

A garage is not a house and such a powerful underlay is not needed here, we used a standard planed board 25x150 mm, laid it in 150 mm increments.

The length of one board was not enough for the entire roof, so we spliced ​​long and short sectors, while the joints must be staggered.

We did not measure the front and rear overhangs during installation. Upon completion of the installation, simply pulled the cord along the level and cut the rafters with a chainsaw.

Next, we hem the front and rear gables with a 25x150 mm board, stuff the same board on the sides, so it’s easier to align the roof sheathing.

It was decided to cover the roof with a galvanized profiled sheet, a little more than 20 sheets were used for the entire roof.

The profiled sheet was fastened to the subroofing crate with special self-tapping screws with a press washer. The overhangs were cut with a grinder in the form of a crate.

Now we just have to sheathe the facade with siding and finish the rooms inside.