The device of the roof of a private house in 2 versions

There are several types of soft roofing:

• roll materials;
• flat membrane roof;
• soft bituminous tiles.

Roll coatings and membrane roofing are usually used on the roofs of high-rise buildings and industrial buildings, but shingles are great for private homes.

The price of such materials now starts from 250 rubles. for 1 m².

In general terms, the arrangement of tile roofs is the same everywhere, the segments are mounted overlapping on the underlay, but the tile is suitable only for a sloping roof.

• Ceramic tiles considered a classic, with proper installation, such a roof can stand for up to 100 years or more. A diagram of such a design is shown on the left, but without experience, this work should not be undertaken. The price of ceramics starts from 600 rubles / m²;

• Composite tiles. Now, in addition to ceramic tiles, they also make cement-sand and composite plates. In appearance, they are all almost the same, but in terms of characteristics and price, these coatings differ.

In my opinion, ceramics, though heavier, but more reliable.

• metal tile. The most popular of the roofing materials in this niche is considered to be a metal tile, it is a thin profiled sheet of metal (up to 1 mm), coated with a polymer coating. For a metal tile, you will have to pay from 350 rubles / m²;

The profiles of metal tiles can be anything, but the installation instructions do not change from this.

These two materials differ from metal tiles only in the type of profile and cost (metal tiles are more expensive), otherwise it is the same galvanized sheet with polymer coating (price from 250 rubles / m²).

Between themselves, corrugated board and profiled sheet differ in height and wave size.

This is also a metal sheet, only smooth.The installation of a roof with a seam connection is more complicated than the two previous options, but the coating will be monolithic, without overlaps (price from 500 rubles / m²).

Classic slate is made from asbestos cement, but such a coating lasts no more than 15 years. But now polymer sheets with the same configuration have appeared. They can withstand without repair for up to 30 years, plus the color range there is quite wide (price from 250 rubles / m²).

The photo on the left shows the minimum set of tools, in addition to it you will need:

• stapler;
• Mounting knife;
• Knife for cutting thermal insulation;
• Template for the crate.

The scheme of the roofing pie is simple, but it is important to follow the order of installation.

First, waterproofing is laid on top of the rafter legs:

1. First, we roll out and fasten the canvas in the valley with a stapler;
2. Then, with an overlap, perpendicular to the rafters, the canvases are laid from the bottom up.

On both hydro and vapor barriers, the recommended amount of overlap is usually marked with a dotted line.

• First, 2 bars of 50x100 mm are nailed along the edge, and a waterproofing sheet is released and attached on top of them;
• Further from the bottom up, the boards of the crate 32x100 mm are stuffed;

• Lathing step is selected according to the step of the imprint of the metal tile, in this case it is 350 mm, we control it using a template;

• In the skate area 2 boards are packed closely.

The valley is the corner joint of two roof planes. It consists of a bottom and top bar.

The main amount of water will drain along the bottom bar, and the top bar is more for decoration.

The top bar is screwed after fixing the sheets of metal.

Around the pipe, we need to mount straight sheets with flanging:

1. First, a sheet is installed from below, it has a chute for draining water (tie), which is directed to the drain system or valley;
2. Next, two side sheets are attached;
3. The top sheet above the pipe is installed last.

• For tightness, before installing the sheet, a groove is cut along the perimeter of the pipe;
• Then this groove is cleaned and filled with sealants;
• Next, we insert the bend of the sheet into the groove and fix the sheet with self-tapping screws on the crate.

It is desirable to mount this system before covering with metal tiles:

• First, we mark the holders, they are installed in increments of half a meter and should have a slope towards the funnel of 3 mm per 1 running meter;

• Further along the markup, we bend the holders with a strip bender and fasten them to the edge of the crate;

• We cut a hole in the gutter for the funnel;

• We insert and fix the chute into the holders. By the same principle, side plugs, drain funnels and connections between the sectors of the gutter are attached.

• This bar is hooked onto the edge of the gutter and fixed on the crate with self-tapping screws in increments of about 1 m;

• A double-sided tape is glued on top of the bar and the edge of the waterproofing sheet is fixed on it.

Sheets of metal tiles can be cut with scissors or special nozzles.

After cutting, the edge of the cut is treated with polymer paint.

Cutting sheets with a grinder is strictly prohibited.

The metal tile is a delicate thing and you need to lift it carefully along the pre-knocked guides.

• Self-tapping screws will be driven into the bottom of the wave and are staggered across the wave.

If you cover the roof with slate, then slate nails are hammered into the top of the wave.

• If you cover the roof from left to right, then the edge of the second sheet is placed under the edge of the first;
• If on the contrary, from right to left, then the next sheet overlaps the previous one.

Ridge pads are flat and semicircular, but there is not much difference in installation.

• First, a cap is attached to the end of the lining with self-tapping screws;

• A polymer ridge seal is placed under the bar, after which it is fixed to the roof with self-tapping screws through one wave.

• For the arrangement of the ends of the roof, there are special strips that are fastened from the bottom up with overlapping screws.

As thermal insulation, I recommend using dense basalt wool slabs.

The slab is cut 2–3 cm larger than the opening and inserted between the rafter legs.

Thermal insulation boards are hemmed from below with a vapor barrier sheet. It will not allow the basalt wool slabs to be saturated with moisture, plus it will keep them in the opening.

As you can see in the photo, the canvas is attached with a stapler. Move from bottom to top.The joints of adjacent canvases are overlapped and glued with double-sided tape.

The installation of the insulated roof is over, now it only needs to be sheathed from the inside with some kind of finishing material, for example, clapboard.

To equip a soft roof, you will need:

• Mounting knife;
• Pencil;
• Hammer;
• Metal spatula;
• Marking cord (beating);
• Scissors for metal;
• Roofing nails;
• Building hair dryer;
• Gun for glue and sealant.

The minimum possible roof slope for such a coating is 11.3º.

1. Ordinary tile;
2. Ridge-cornice tiles;
3. Lining carpet;
4. Valley carpet;
5. Seals for communications outlets;
6. Bituminous glue;
7. Lining for a brick pipe;
8. Metal end strips.

The roofing cake here is exactly the same as in the version with metal tiles, only a continuous layer of OSB sheets or waterproof plywood (thickness from 12 mm) is sewn onto the upper crate.

It is possible to sew up the roof with a grooved board, but it is expensive and it is inconvenient to work with such a coating.

The lining carpet is laid first on a solid base. There is an adhesive layer along the edges of the canvas, this layer is protected by a film, which is removed during installation.

We begin the installation by rolling the strip along the valley;

Next, roll out the strips on the roof.

Strips can be rolled out both horizontally and vertically. I prefer vertical styling.

• After rolling out and joining two adjacent tapes, bend the top tape;
• Remove the protective film from the bottom tape;
• Nail the tape with nails using a pneumatic or conventional hammer.

The lining carpet is folded over and a cornice strip is stuffed on top.

The planks are joined with an overlap of 100-150 mm.

Further along the valleys, we roll out and nail the valley carpet. This is the same tile, only in a roll.

Now we remove the protective film and glue the cornice tiles to the cornice strip at a distance of 10 mm from the edge.

We take the ganty of an ordinary tile and nail them in such a way that the nails pass through the eaves tile.

So we get to the skate. The extreme row is cut off along the ridge.

On the side edge, they are glued to the cornice strip.

There is no special ridge tile, here we take a cornice tile and cut it across into 3 parts.

Then we remove the film and glue these pieces with an overlap and nail them, 2 nails on each side.