How to independently mount the ventilation passage through the roof, what designs exist and how they are marked

This is the simplest penetration, it is usually chosen by the owners of small private houses, where there is no need to adjust the ventilation flow.

Plus, the price of such a node will pleasantly please you.

Such a ventilation passage assembly, as a rule, is mounted on powerful ventilation systems of multi-storey buildings and office buildings.

The photo on the left shows a steel adapter with a valve, which is attached to the concrete roof with anchor bolts.

In the vast majority of cases, such passages are now insulated.

As shown in the diagram on the left, dense basalt wool is used for insulation, but on cold pipes, for example, foam can be used for fan ventilation.

An uninsulated ventilation passage through the roof is mounted only in cold attics and when arranging under-roof ventilation.

There are 2 types of designs: with automatic and manual control.

The gate valve on automatic penetrations is equipped with an electric motor and is controlled by an automatic ventilation system.

In mechanical systems with manual control, the gate is adjusted using a transmission mechanism, sometimes this mechanism is equipped with a cable.

We proceed from the fact that the ventilation pipe has already been brought to the attic and we need to “pass” through a fully equipped and insulated roof made of metal or profiled sheet (there is no big difference here):

• To do this, we take a plumb line and find the passage point under the roof;
• Next, remove the bottom layer of vapor barrier;
• We remove the heater;
• We make a mark on the top layer of the vapor barrier and cut it.

In the kit of almost all such units there is a paper template that repeats the inner contour of the roof lining.

We take this template and use it to mark the place of the future tie-in.

The thickness of a metal tile or profiled sheet often does not exceed 1.2 mm. It is quite possible to cut such metal with a good knife. Simply put, open like a tin can.

• When the hole in the roof is cut out, we take the lower sealing ring and cut a hole in the under-roof vapor barrier along it;
• After that, we lubricate the sealing ring with sealant and apply it from below, so that the contour of the ring is tightly connected to the vapor barrier.

Now we need to fix this ring with self-tapping screws on the underlaying crate on both sides.

Please note: the arrow points to the upper tongue of the ring. The fact is that the lower part of the ring is screwed to the side of the crate (as in the photo above), and the upper tongue is screwed to the crate from the inside from the side attic.

First we put on metal hooks, the center is determined by them.

Such brackets are used only in some models of units intended for metal tiles; they are practically not used in profiled sheet roofs.

The body of the superstructure is usually made of metal, iron 1.19 mm thick or stainless steel 0.5–0.8 mm thick is used. There is a rubber gasket on the bottom.

Silicone sealant must be taken special, the composition should not contain vinegar.

Self-tapping screws must be driven diagonally, so the lining will be attracted to the base evenly and will not warp it.

That part of the pipe, which is located on the roof, has a lower branch pipe, through which it is connected to internal structures.

It is very difficult to get this pipe clearly into the neck of the ventilation pipe installed in the attic, so we use a connecting rubber corrugation.

The corrugation is fixed on adjacent pipes with metal tightening clamps, which are clearly visible in the photo on the left.

All pipes on the roof must be strictly vertical. To do this, we install our pipe in the adapter and set it to the level.

Further, the pipe is fixed with an adapter with self-tapping screws. In this model, 3 self-tapping screws are driven from each side.

Just as when fixing the lining, the screws must be driven diagonally.

Now we just have to put the corrugation on the lower plastic ventilation pipe and fix the connection with a clamp.

All insulated roofs must be equipped with under-roof ventilation, otherwise condensate will constantly settle from the inside.

In winter, this condensate will freeze, as shown in the photo, and in summer, moisture will be absorbed into the wooden rafters and crate, gradually destroying them.

In addition, if you insulate the roof with mineral wool, then without under-roof ventilation it will quickly become damp and become useless.

During installation, a ventilation gap must be left between the roofing material and the vapor barrier.

From below, in the region of rain tides, fresh air enters this gap. The air will inevitably heat up from the roof and rise up.

On relatively small roofs, ventilation passages are made on both sides of the ridge to allow air to escape.

If the roof plane has an area of ​​more than 60 m², then additional ventilation passages are installed on the plane itself.

During the arrangement of the roof, the ventilation gap from below is sewn up with a PVC insect net.

After that, metal ebbs are installed on top, in which a ventilation gap is also left.

To ensure the release of air in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ridge, there are many models of ridge products. The general principle of operation and one of the models of such products is shown in the diagram on the left.

On roofs with a large quadrature and a steep angle of inclination, one ridge air is not enough.

In these cases, additional roof penetrations are mounted, these units are also called point aerators.

Such penetrations are installed at a distance of no more than a meter from the ridge.

I told you about the technique of installing penetrations on metal tiles, the video in this article shows how penetrations are mounted on bituminous tiles, the technology here differs only in small things.