Do-it-yourself roof installation - sequence of actions and laying of ceramic roofing

The entire forest that we will use for the installation of the roof of the house is pre-treated with an antiseptic and flame retardant.

Mauerlat is a wooden beam on which the truss system of the house is based.

It can be solid square with a side of 150 mm or type-setting.

To evenly distribute the load under it, an armored belt is poured over the walls.

1. First, the formwork is mounted;
2. Extruded polystyrene foam 50 mm is laid into the formwork along the outer walls;
3. Threaded studs are slightly driven into the walls for attaching the Mauerlat;
4. The frame is knitted from reinforcement.

At the last stage, concrete is poured.

A layer of waterproofing is laid on the armored belt, the tree should not come into contact with the walls.

• Holes are drilled in the beam;
• It sits on studs, stud pitch 1m, thickness 10 - 12 mm;
• The beam is screwed to the base with nuts, through wide washers.

The 2 extreme rafter triangles are installed first:

• First, install the supporting beam in the center along the plumb line;
• The bottom of this beam is nailed to the wall or to the Mauerlat, and a support is placed on the reverse side;
• The structure is temporary, so it is not worth fixing it tightly;
• Based on this design, we put 2 rafter legs and fix them together in 3 places with wooden ties.

After installing the two extreme rafter triangles, a ridge beam is attached between them:

• When assembling the rafter system, all structures are connected with metal corners and plates;
• Loaded places are additionally fixed with 10 mm metal pins.

Under the Mauerlat, the rafter legs are sawn and fastened with corners.

On the ridge beam, the rafters can be fixed end-to-end and with an overlay.

The rafter legs themselves are set in increments of 60–80 cm.

I recommend immediately deciding on the type and width of the insulation and installing rafter legs along the width of the mineral wool boards.

A gable roof can be with a non-residential attic and with an attic (residential attic space).

• With an ordinary attic, everything is simple, here the number of supports and the structure of the structure depends on the size of the roof: the larger it is, the more powerful the support beams are needed, a possible option is shown in the diagram on the left;

• The attic system is not much more complicated, it just needs to mount more props and slopes in it.

If you do not have sufficient experience in such work, then it is better to cut skylights directly into the plane of the roof.

You simply select the desired model in the store, knock down a wooden box under it, and then mount everything according to the instructions that came with the window.

Inserting a vertical window is much more difficult, where you will have to mount a separate gable rafter system in miniature and dock all this with the main structure.

• Hacksaw for wood;
• Strip bender;
• Level;
• Chopping cord;
• Hammer;
• Tongs for bending metal;
• stapler;
• Sealant gun;
• Scissors ordinary and metal;
• Knife;
• Square;
• Roulette;
• Screwdriver;
• Bulgarian.

Calculations are made based on the configuration of a particular model of ceramic tiles. The attached instruction contains all the necessary parameters.

Such planes are checked diagonally, how to check the roof diagonal is shown in the diagram.

In practice, you just need to hammer the studs in the corners and measure the diagonals with a cord, the allowable error is 20 mm.

There are 2 types of crates, solid and sparse:

• For the arrangement of a continuous crate, OSB sheets or thick waterproof plywood are used, but such flooring is mounted only for soft roofing (bituminous tiles in the diagram on the left);
• For roofing works with rigid materials (ceramics, sheet metal, slate, etc.), a sparse crate is mounted.

The cornice strip or drip is fastened with self-tapping screws to the edge of the rafter legs around the entire perimeter of the roof.

On both sides of the valley, if any, crate bars are stuffed. From the bottom edge of the bar to the gutter line should be 150–200 mm.

The bars are cut along the cornice overhang.

The valley boards of the crate are covered and wrapped with a vapor barrier membrane, the roll is rolled from top to bottom along the valley, the canvas is fixed with a stapler.

We lay the strips from the bottom up, plus on the valley and along the side edge we make an overlap of about 30 cm.

The canvas is attached to the eaves with double-sided tape.

All adjacent planes, such as a ridge or a ridge of a hip roof, are also mounted with an overlap.

The amount of overlap between adjacent strips of the vapor barrier membrane is marked on the membrane itself.

We use a 50x50 mm bar for the counter-lattice. The bars are stuffed along the rafter legs.

A gap of 50 mm must be left between the bars of the counter-lattice and the valley bars.

In the region of the ridge, the counter-lattice is cut at an angle and tightly joined.

• Now the lower board of the main crate is nailed over the dropper. In the corners and in the valleys, it is sawn and joined solid;

• We attach a metal or plastic mesh to this board with self-tapping screws to protect the ventilation gap from birds.

Before nailing the first plank of the horizontal crate, you need to attach the tiles and see how much it will hang over the gutter of the gutter system, according to the instructions, this should be 1/3 of the diameter of the gutter.

The upper bar of the batten is fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the junction point of the bars of the counter batten.

Between the extreme bars, the location of the planks is calculated so that the tiles lie in whole rows, without undercuts.

• Along the entire length of the gable overhang, a counter-lattice beam is attached from below;

• Further, the vapor barrier is bent over the beam and fixed with a stapler;

• A frontal board is nailed to the side of the pediment, after which the excess vapor barrier is cut off.

• Brackets are attached to the edge of the cornice overhang with a step of 70 cm;
• The slope should be 3 mm per 1 running meter;
• First, put all the brackets together and mark;
• Next, we bend the brackets with a strip bender;
• We fix 2 extreme brackets;
• We stretch a cord between them;
• We fasten intermediate brackets along the cord;

• We assemble the gutters, insert drain funnels into them and install end caps;

• The drainpipe is assembled and mounted on the wall last.

An apron is mounted along the edge of the roof overhang, and it is fastened with clamps along the upper edge.

A reinforced crate is stuffed in the valley area.

• A corrugated drain gutter is mounted along the valley, the sections of the gutter are overlapped by 100 mm and fixed with self-tapping screws;

• We attach a self-adhesive molding with water-repellent impregnation along the edge of the gutter.

Along the edge of the apron, the so-called airstrip is attached with self-tapping screws.

The airstrip is mounted at a distance of 3-4 cm from the edge of the apron.

It is necessary to ensure that the airstrip does not enter the valley, otherwise it will trap garbage there.

• First, a row of gable tiles is tried on and laid;

• A gap of 10 mm is left from the frontal board to the inner edge of the gable tile, so the spike will need to be knocked down with a hammer from the inside;

• Next, the tile segments are laid from right to left. Each segment is fixed in the upper part to the battens with 2 galvanized self-tapping screws.

• Along the valley, the segments are cut and laid;

• When cutting tiles for a valley, too small triangles should not be, in order to compensate for the distance, a half segment is inserted into the middle of the row.

• Ridge tiles should lie on ordinary tiles, so the ridge beam is attached 1 cm below the arch of the ridge tiles;

• To determine the location of the beam, we apply a ruler and measure with a tape measure;

• Now we attach the supporting metal brackets to the crate and fix the ridge beam on them;

• We roll out a special ventilated tape with a self-adhesive edge along the ridge, crimp it in the shape of the roof and fix it to the beam with a stapler;

• Install the end plate;

• We fasten the end clamp from above and insert a segment of ridge tiles into it;

• Further, all ridge segments are mounted in the same way.

The video in this article shows the entire installation process clearly.