If you have started the independent construction of your own house or cottage, one of the most important stages of construction will be the design and construction of the roof. It is clear that it is not every day that you build a house with your own hands - video tutorials and step-by-step photo training can be easily found on the Internet, but in this article we will try to summarize our experience and give some tips on choosing a specific construction technology.
Consider the main points of this complex work
Any roof is a complex system consisting of several layers.What are roof layers?
- crate;
- Vapor barrier;
- insulation;
- Waterproofing;
- roofing layer.
Number of layers on your roof maybe more, it depends on the project, laying technologies, materials, natural conditions and the area in which the house is located.
Do-it-yourself roofing is not at all easy to create. But the effort expended will justify itself over time, when any problems with the roof arise.
You know all the weak and strong points of your roof and in cases of leakage or damage you can quickly repair it yourself.
crate
One of the most complex and responsible processes in the construction of a roof is the installation of a truss system. Rafters serve as the basis on which all layers of our roof rest. A crate is stuffed onto the finished rafter system, to which the roofing material will be attached.
The crate is:
- solid;
- stuffed through the step.
The type of lathing is selected depending on the material that will be used for the roofing.
In particular:
- For soft and rolled roofing, the crate is made solid, even, without burrs, so as not to damage the roofing material. You can use moisture resistant plywood, OSB or edged boards for this. Just keep in mind that the boards should not be fixed closely, as the tree tends to expand, so leave a 5 mm gap between them.
- Seam roofing also requires a continuous crate or with a very small step.
- For ondulin, corrugated board or metal tiles, the crate is made in increments of 400-500 mm vertically and 250 mm horizontally, for this they use 25x25 bars or boards 20-25 cm. This step is explained by the lightness of the roofing materials themselves.
- For ceramic tiles, the crate is made with a small step -30 cm horizontally and the same amount vertically. The small step is explained by the size of the tile itself and the fact that the ceramic tile itself is a heavy roofing material, so the distance between the wooden structures of the crate has to be made smaller.
Advice! The crate of the house should have an overhang. It does not need to be made large, no more than 20-30 cm, but the overhang should pass around the entire perimeter of a private house. It can protect your home from a slanting downpour. The costs are small, and the additional protection of the house is guaranteed.
What is waterproofing and vapor barrier?
The need to install a vapor barrier is determined by how the attic will be used. If the attic is non-residential, then vapor barrier is desirable, but not strictly necessary.
In cases where an attic space is used for arranging a residential attic there, vapor barrier is necessary. Laying the vapor barrier film can be done both from the inside of the attic room and from the outside, being on the roof itself.
For laying a vapor barrier, special films are used - yutafan or isospan. These films have an interesting feature, they allow moisture to pass only in one direction.
When installing a vapor barrier, it is important not to confuse the sides of this film. The film is attached to the rafters using a construction stapler. Vapor barrier does not let moisture from the living space into the insulation.
If it is not done, then over time the insulation will be saturated with moisture, due to which:
- the thermal insulation properties of the insulation will decrease (water, which is a good conductor of heat, will displace air from the insulation, which is a poor conductor of heat);
- there will be an unpleasant smell in the attic room, which cannot be removed;
- wooden roof structures can begin to rot from contact with wet insulation.
insulation
Your attention! A warm roof is an economical use of energy resources in the winter and summer seasons. In winter, it will allow us to save on heating, and in summer on air conditioning of the entire house and attic space. How much heat do we lose if the roof is not insulated? Losses are about 25%, this figure is not small.
If we calculate the costs of roof insulation and compensation for heat losses, then the result of the calculations will clearly show the advantage of roof insulation.
When insulating the roof, it is very important not to make a mistake with the choice of insulation. How to choose the right heater? What you should pay attention to?
- Insulation should be chosen of high quality, so that over time its properties to retain heat remain unchanged;
- Insulation material choose environmentally friendly;
- The material must be fireproof, that is, not combustible;
- The insulation material must necessarily be moisture resistant;
- Some heaters are treated with special solutions and have an unpleasant odor. Do not buy such a heater, over time this smell will penetrate into the attic and it will be impossible to get rid of it;
- An important property of the insulation is the preservation of its size and thickness, this is especially important for pitched roofs, so that over time the insulation does not slide down the roof, leaving the upper part of the roof without thermal protection;
- Insulation should not absorb moisture, due to moisture, the properties of the insulation change greatly, thermal conductivity increases and, as a result, thermal insulation deteriorates;
- The insulation material must be frost-resistant so that during the Russian winters it continues to retain heat and does not collapse.
Until now, glass wool is still used as a heater. The main reason for this choice is its low cost. But that's already yesterday. Glass wool has been replaced by new, higher-quality insulating materials.
We list a few of them:
- roll insulation URSA;
- isover (a modern version of higher quality glass wool);
- mineral wool slabs (specially processed basalt rocks).
The insulation is laid in the inter-rafter space and fixed there with the help of transverse rails. Do not forget to leave a ventilation space between the insulation and the crate. This distance must be made at least 5 centimeters.
Condensation often accumulates under the roof, which must be removed so as not to spoil the insulation. It is necessary to arrange the ventilation ducts in such a way that fresh, cold air enters them from below (under the cornice), and warm air exits through the holes at the ends (ridge gaps).
To equip the ventilation ducts, a counter-lattice is mounted. Install it along the rafter legs. For the counter-lattice, five-centimeter bars are used.
Waterproofing
Waterproofing films keep the insulation from water vapor accumulating under the roofing material itself.
Advice! The waterproofing layer must be fastened with brackets or nails with hats every 20-30 cm, the joints should be overlapped by 15 cm, it is also desirable to glue them with a special tape. As well as for the insulation, ventilation ducts of about 2 cm are made. This is easy to do, we leave a slight deflection of the waterproofing for air movement.
Roof layer
For the installation of any type of roofing, there are basic rules:
- It is necessary to start covering the roof from the bottom up, towards the rain or snow flow.
- For a wavy roof, you need to consider the prevailing wind direction in your area. For example: if the wind blows more often from the right side, then you need to lay the roofing sheets from right to left.
The method of fastening the roof deck to the batten also depends on the type of roofing material. Roofing nails, construction adhesive, dowels with rubber pads, bitumen, etc. can be used for fastening.
Characteristics of roofing materials
Now in the market of building materials there is a large selection of roofing materials. Let's look at the main types of roofing.
- Roofing from ceramic tiles;
- metal roofing;
- corrugated roofing;
- slate roofing;
- soft roof;
- seam roof;
- ondulin roofing, etc.
Each of these materials has its own set of properties and characteristics that must be considered when you make a roofing calculation.
We list briefly the main characteristics of the most common roofing materials.
Strength characteristic:
1. Materials with high strength:
- metal tile;
- polymer tiles;
- copper;
- ceramic tiles;
- Cink Steel.
2.Materials with medium strength:
- bituminous tiles;
- slate;
- aluminum;
3. Low strength materials:
- ruberoid;
- ondulin.
Estimated service life:
- Materials with a service life of up to 30 years: metal tiles, ondulin, shingles, slate.
- With a service life of 50 years: galvanized steel, metal tiles with backfill.
- Service life of 100 years or more: copper, polymer tiles, aluminum, ceramic tiles.
By type of crate:
- With a continuous crate: copper, aluminum, galvanized steel, shingles, roofing material.
- With a rare crate: metal tile, slate, ondulin.
- With frequent lathing: polymer and ceramic tiles.
Recently, the use of old natural roofing materials - reed, wooden shingles - to cover the roofs of baths, temporary and courtyard buildings (and in some cases houses) is gaining popularity.
Such materials are distinguished by high environmental friendliness, low weight, low cost. Reeded roofs do not require additional thermal insulation, since the reed itself has an extremely low thermal conductivity.
The disadvantage of such structures is their fire hazard, low strength and insufficient durability. Shingles and reeds are subject to regular replacement every 5-10 years, depending on the climatic conditions of the area in which the building is located.
In general, when you calculate the roof of the roof, you should be guided by the standards set forth in the SNiP RK Roofs and roofs. In this case, the roof of your house will reliably protect you, your children and grandchildren for decades.
Did the article help you?