How to make a roof at home with your own hands - an easy option for a home master

The easiest, most affordable and economical option in terms of materials.

The problem is that it is not suitable for medium and large houses. Most often, a shed roof is mounted on garages, sheds and other outbuildings.

A traditional and rather comfortable design that fits any home with a rectangular or square "box".

Now more than half of the owners of private houses and cottages choose a gable roof.

The hipped roof looks like a tetrahedral pyramid, consisting of isosceles triangles with a common vertex.

Now it is rare, the main reason lies in the complexity of the beam-pulling system on which this design is based.

This design is also based on the beam-tightening system, but is more common than the hipped one. Fans of these types of roofs should not be taken.

In the classic version, the half-hip roof is no longer used.

The structure is assembled according to a gable truss scheme using puffs and “fillies” bent upwards.

Of all the existing multi-pitched roof is considered one of the most complex structures.

It is installed only on buildings with an "original" layout or houses with several extensions.

Only highly qualified professionals can work with such roofs.

This type of roof is only slightly inferior in popularity to the gable construction. People are attracted to living attic space.

You can build a mansard roof with your own hands, but you need some experience, so it's better to start with a gable roof.

The rafters in this system are installed only on the Mauerlat between the bearing walls. If the rafters are supported by racks, then the racks are attached to the ceiling beams.

This system differs from the suspended one in that the racks supporting the rafters are based both on the load-bearing walls and on the walls inside the house.

If the house is block (brick, cinder block), then under the Mauerlat you need to pour a concrete reinforced belt over the wall.

The height of the belt is 250–300 mm, the width of the belt is equal to the thickness of the wall.

You make a wooden formwork, lay a reinforcing cage inside and fill everything with concrete.

Even before pouring concrete, it is necessary to vertically install a number of threaded studs or simply pieces of reinforcement in the center of the future strapping with a step of 0.6–1 m. Mauerlat will then be attached to them.

In houses made of aerated concrete, a concrete reinforced belt is poured directly into the U-shaped shaped gas blocks.

There is no Mauerlat as such in wooden houses; its function is performed by a beam or a log of the upper trim.

Under the Mauerlat, the base should be perfectly flat, if at first you missed this moment, then you will need to level it before laying.

The base can be leveled with a cement-sand mortar or glue for gas blocks (glue is used in houses made of aerated concrete).

The beam should not be in direct contact with concrete, therefore, before laying the Mauerlat, we cover the roofing material on top, preferably in 2 layers.

We drill holes in the Mauerlat for the studs embedded in the wall, put the beam on the studs and pull it to the wall.

Be sure to place a wide washer on top and lock the mount.

A solid beam is joined into half a tree, that is, make a cutout as in the photo, join two sectors and drive 5–7 long screws or nails on top.

If the Mauerlat is recruited from rafter bars, then they are simply stacked apart and fastened with self-tapping screws.

There are cases when the Mauerlat is assembled from pieces laid between the floor beams, but the strength of this design is much lower, plus you will need 2 times more anchors for fastening.

Absolutely all the wood that goes to the construction of the roof must be treated at least 2 times with antiseptics and flame retardants, otherwise the roof will stand for no more than 10-15 years, then it will be eaten by bugs.

It is impossible to make a roof from a freshly sawn forest, in the process of drying under load, beams and boards can lead or they will begin to crack.

To reduce costs, you can take freshly cut wood in advance and stack it under a canopy, the wood will dry out during the season, the laying order is shown in the diagram on the left.

The first are 2 triangles at the edges. To keep them from wobbling, I reinforced both triangles with a temporary stand and a diagonal brace.

In addition, I also fixed the temporary vertical rack with two boards diagonally.

On the Mauerlat, I installed and secured bars of 50x150 mm with metal corners. The bars are cut at an angle of inclination of the roof.

Please note: the corners are attached to 8 self-tapping screws (4x4) and are installed only on one, outer side.

As the rafter legs are installed, the base of the beam is clamped with the same stop and fastened with self-tapping screws.

Later, in addition to self-tapping screws, I plan to tighten this entire structure with a 12 mm through stud.

In principle, such fasteners are enough, but to be sure, I decided to support the rafter leg with triangles from below.

A metal plate is screwed on the outside, and then the pediment will be sheathed on top with a 25 mm board and siding.

From above, I launched a ridge beam, for this I fixed 2 puffs (crossbars) with a gap of 150 mm on the rafters, inserted a beam between them and fixed it with metal corners on self-tapping screws.

I attached 2 linings from the same beam on the sides and pulled it all off on both sides with 12 mm studs.

My rafters turned out to be 6 m each, and the entire span was 7 m wide. At the top point, the load is solid, especially in the extreme triangles, so I cut out the lining from a 5 mm thick steel sheet, drilled them and pulled them together with five studs.

Intermediate crossbars on the extreme rafter triangles are inserted inward and fixed with metal plates on both sides.

On the rafters, the puffs are fixed with two studs and four self-tapping screws.

After the final installation of the extreme rafter triangles, a cord is pulled between them.

This landmark will help us set all the other rafters in the same plane.

In my case, each rafter at the connection point with the Mauerlat was cut, as shown in the photo.

But this is not the only option for connecting the rafter leg to the Mauerlat.

• Option A - the rafter leg, as it were, wraps around the Mauerlat;
• Option B - not only the rafter leg is cut, but also the Mauerlat itself;
• Option B - the rafter leg is cut at an angle, but so that the cutout does not slip, stops are still attached to the beam on both sides;
• Option D is the same as option C, only in it the rafter leg is not cut off near the Mauerlat, but continues for at least another half a meter and you get a ready-made cornice overhang.

There are also gashes with a “tooth”, but they need experience and special tools.

In a wooden house, the rafters cannot be rigidly attached to the Mauerlat, they will warp when shrinking.

For fixing, a floating mount is used here, the photo on the left shows how it works.

My cornice overhang turned out to be a continuation of the rafters. If the length of the rafters is not enough, then they rest against the Mauerlat or extended floor beams, and the cornice overhang is increased by the so-called "fillies".

Usually these are bars with a section of 50x100 mm, which are attached to the rafters with self-tapping screws.

Each such bar should overlap the rafters for at least half a meter and hang over the wall for the same distance.

The assembly of the truss system is over, now I will show you how to properly mount the roof sheathing.

The first to be mounted on the edge of the gable overhang is a “dropper” - a corner made of a thin metal sheet, which is needed to seal the cut.

To do this, I cut niches in the rafters and stuff a 25x150 mm board into them on both sides, so that I get an angle.

A dropper is attached to this outer corner with self-tapping screws.

A barrier is inserted and fixed between the rafters parallel to the wall, it will not allow the internal roofing thermal insulation to slide down.

I made the barrier from a board 25x150 mm. The board is attached at 3 points to self-tapping screws, along the edges to the rafters and below to the Mauerlat. Self-tapping screws are driven at an angle.

In order for the waterproofing membrane to fit snugly against the drip, I first glue the “K2” butyl rubber tape on the edge, and glue double-sided tape on it.

I used a waterproof vapor permeable membrane for roofs "Strotex-V".

Do not try to cover the roof with polyethylene, condensation will collect under it.

• On the sides, the membrane should extend beyond the wall by 15 cm;
• The membrane is rolled out horizontally;
• The lower edge of the membrane is glued to double-sided tape;
• The canvas itself is attached to the rafters with a stapler.

As soon as one strip of the membrane is fixed, we begin to fasten the counter-lattice.

I used a 30x40 mm bar and screwed it to the rafters with 80x5 mm self-tapping screws.

It is desirable that all self-tapping screws be with a stainless coating.

At the bottom of the bars of the counter-lattice, I glued strips of cross-linked polyethylene 3 mm thick, on one side this tape has an adhesive layer.

With such a seal, the bar holds the membrane along the entire line of contact, moisture cannot penetrate under the bar, plus the staples from the stapler are closed.

The step of the outer crate depends on what type of roof you have, in my case a metal tile will be mounted, so I fill the board with a step of 300 mm.

Board thickness 20–25 mm.

The next strip of the membrane is rolled out and attached to the previous one. Marks are visible in the photo, the edge of the next tape will pass along these marks. Plus, the joint is glued with double-sided tape.

I fastened the outer crate with 100x5 mm self-tapping screws and additionally nailed 120 mm with nails.

When waterproofing the ridge, the membrane must be wound in a single sheet under the counter-lattice. I did an overlap of 350 mm on each side, according to the rules, 200 mm is enough.

It is advisable to remove the chimney even before you begin to install the waterproofing, so it will be convenient for you to bypass it.

I decided to make the roof of the house out of metal tiles. One of the standard sizes of a metal tile sheet is 6 m, just under this size, I made rafters.

You can choose any other type of roof, by the way, the most affordable option is slate, but it will have to be changed in 10–15 years.

You can insulate the roof in different ways, I laid dense slabs of mineral wool between the beams, and sewed everything up with a layer of vapor barrier on top and stuffed the lining.

Instead of cotton wool, foam boards can be used, but this insulation does not let air through.

But keep in mind, you need to take exactly mineral wool slabs. Soft mats will “sit down” and in 5–7 years will become like a thin blanket.