Don't know how to fix the roof vapor barrier and are afraid to spoil the material? I will tell you the technology of proper work, which is within the power of even inexperienced craftsmen and ensures the highest quality of work. The main thing is to follow all the recommendations below.
Description of works
Before we begin to disassemble the installation process, you must understand what a roof vapor barrier is for.The fact is that during the operation of the premises, the formation of water vapor rising upwards occurs. If the surface is not protected by a film, then evaporation penetrates into the mineral wool and accumulates there, destroying the material and reducing its thermal insulation performance.
The main requirement for laying a vapor barrier film is tightness in all areas, pay special attention to the accuracy of the work.
Work materials
To perform the work, first of all, a vapor barrier material is needed. There are three types of films:
- Polyethylene options. The simplest and cheapest solution. It is a film with a density of about 100 g / sq.m., for strength, the material is reinforced over the entire area. The biggest drawback is a short service life (no more than 10 years), both other options last twice or three times longer;
- Polypropylene films. The most popular option, combining reliability, good performance and reasonable cost. The material consists of fibers intertwined with each other, has a density of 100 gr. per square meter and is suitable for all types of heaters;
- Superdiffusion membranes. The highest quality vapor barrier on the roof, but its price is high. The cloth has a multilayer structure, is not afraid of solar radiation and has good strength.
In addition to the film, other materials are also needed:
- Special double-sided tape. Sold together with insulation and serves for high-quality and reliable connection of joints to each other;
- reinforced tape. We will glue the joints on the outside with them. The use of two tapes ensures the highest reliability of connections, and the quality of the vapor barrier will be at the highest level.
- wooden block. A counter-lattice will be made from it over the vapor barrier.
From the tool you need the following:
- Construction stapler. The main tool with which the film will be attached. The kit should include brackets 6-8 mm long, this is enough for reliable installation;
- Knife or scissors. Needed for cutting film and adhesive tapes. If you have a knife, then additionally stock up on a ruler or even rail in order to cut the material along the line;
- Yardstick;
- stepladder;
- screwdriver - for fastening the counter-lattice.
The working process
Instructions for laying vapor barrier materials with your own hands look like this:
| Illustration | Stage description |
 | The heater must be securely fastened. Thermal insulation of the inside of the roof is made in advance.
|
 | Adjacent wall sections are leveled. Along the perimeter, you need to level the surfaces, if you have a gas block, then it must be trimmed with a special grater as in the photo. In brick walls, the influx of mortar is knocked down if they stick out. In wooden structures, the surface is cleaned of dust. |
 | Adjacent surfaces are primed. This is necessary to strengthen them and improve the adhesion of the tape. It is desirable to process the gas block twice. |
 | All cracks are sealed. If there is a void between the Mauerlat and the wall, then you need to seal it with foamed polypropylene tape. Then you will not be able to do this, all the flaws are eliminated before the vapor barrier is attached - the film will cover the surfaces. |
 | Wiring must be laid in advance. For safety, the cable must be laid in a special corrugation. |
 | The required piece of film is cut off. To do this, measurements are made, they must take into account the overlap on the walls of at least 150 mm.
The film is cut with a knife or scissors. |
 | Marks are made on the rafter system. They are needed so that when attaching you see a clear guideline and place the panel evenly.
If the vapor barrier for the roof is laid horizontally, then a mark is made for the first strip from the bottom to set a guide. |
 | The bottom edge of the material is attached. To begin with, it can be fixed on 3-4 brackets, along the edges and in the middle. This is enough for the initial fix. |
 | The film is attached through 1-2 beams. Position the material with some slack and secure it in several places for initial alignment. Then, when the membrane holds, you will quickly complete the fixation. |
 | Final fixing in progress. Staples are located in increments of 20-30 cm on each beam. Do not forget about the overlaps on the walls at the junction of the membrane. |
 | Adhesive double sided tape. It is located between the strip on the film and the edge of the roll. The tape should be pressed tightly against the material.
|
 | The second piece of film is attached. The technology is simple: the element is joined along the strip, which is on any membrane, so the necessary overlap is provided.Next, the primary fastening is carried out, and then the staples are hammered into all the rafters. |
 | The strips stick together. The protective layer is gradually removed from the tape, and the sheets are pressed against each other along the entire length of the joint. |
 | Additional tape is glued over the joint. It allows you to provide maximum reliability, even if the double-sided tape does not lie somewhere as it should. |
 | The rest of the roof is insulated in the same way.. The result is a very reliable moisture barrier that prevents vapors from entering the insulation. |
 | A counter-lattice is stuffed over the insulation. It is needed to create a ventilation gap through which moisture will escape. Also, the bars act as a frame for fastening the finishing material. |
Conclusion
You have learned all the nuances of the technology and can easily lay the vapor barrier on the roof on your own. The video in this article will help you understand the topic even better, if you have questions - ask in the comments.
Did the article help you?